Nov
11

Knitty Gritty Pattern:Hizknit’s Felted Messenger Bag


Felted Messenger Bag, by Stephen Houghton (aka Hizknits)

Materials
4 balls Crystal Palace Iceland in Dutch Blue (#7063) [MC1]
1 ball Crystal Palace Merino Stripes in Blue Jeans (#023) [MC2]
1 ball Crystal Palace Iceland in Pumpkin (#0022) [CC]
1 rubber mountain-bike inner tube, 26″x2 or 26″x2-1/2″ (the wider the better)
40″ circular needles, US #17
stitch markers
1/4 c. soap
top-loading washing machine
pillowcase
rubber band or tie to secure pillowcase

Stitches
Stockinette
Purl
Cable cast-on (for the buttonholes)

Gauge

2-1/2 stitches = 1″ (before felting)

Prefelted Dimensions
Bag: 20″ wide x 18″ high x 5″ deep
Cover flap: 20″ wide x 18″ long

Notes:
The bag is knit in the round with no seaming. The piece is constructed around the inner tube, using large “buttonholes” on either side that allow the tube/strap to weave in and out of the bag. Felting secures the strap inside the bag and makes the fabric solid and thick enough to survive daily use on or off a bike.

Body of Bag

Building the body of the bag:

1. Carrying MC1 and MC2 together, co 50 sts.

2. Beginning with a p row, work in St st for 30 rows to form the bottom of the bag.

3. With RS facing, instead of turning work, rotate it 90 degrees clockwise and pick up 10 sts on the short side of the rectangle (1 st every 3 rows).

4. Rotate again, and pick up 50 sts on the cast-on edge.

5. Rotate once more, and pick up 10 sts on the remaining short side of the rectangle (1 st every 3 rows). There are now 120 sts going all around the bottom of the bag.

6. Place marker at beginning of round and p50. Place marker, p10. Place marker, p50. Place marker, p10. There are now markers at the four corners of the bag.

7. K50 to first marker, p2, k6, p2 to next marker. K50 to third marker, p2, k6, p2 to last marker. Repeat round 9 more times.

8. K50 to get to side panel, p2.

Creating a Tube-In Buttonhole

1. K1, slip the next st purlwise (from the left needle to the right), place yarn to the back and leave it there. It will be dealt with it later.

2. Sl the next st to the right needle and pass the first slipped st over it. Repeat this whole step five more times. Slip the last bound-off st back to the left needle and turn the work around.

3. Start to build the upper edge of the buttonhole, using the cable cast-on. With WS facing and yarn to the back, insert the right needle between the first and second sts on the left needle. Wrap yarn around the tip of the right needle and pull the loop through to the front. Place that loop on the end of the left needle. Repeat this whole step six more times.

Enclosing the Tube

1. There is now an open buttonhole. Before closing it, you must trap the tube inside it. Turn the work over so the RS is facing. Lay one side of the tube on the bound off stitches of the bottom edge of the buttonhole. Letting the rest of the tube sit in your lap, make sure both needles are above the tube for the following: with yarn in back, slip the first st from the left needle to the right and pass over the last cast-on st from the right needle to close the buttonhole. Move this st back to the left needle and p1 to “lock” the buttonhole.

2. The knitting will now be around the tube, with the lower part of the tube on top of what you’ve knit. This will be outside of the bag. The top edge of the buttonhole should be sitting on top of the tube.

Body of Bag, Continued

9. P2, k50, p2. Repeat the buttonhole steps, above, on other side. When securing the second buttonhole, make sure the lower part of the tube covers the outside of side panel, from the bottom buttonhole edge to bottom of the bag. P2.

10. Continue for 10 rounds (k50, p2, k6, p2, k50, p2, k6, p2).

11. K50 to get to side panel, p2.

Creating a Tube-Out Buttonhole

1. K1, slip the next stitch purlwise (from the left needle to the right) and place yarn to the back and leave it there. It will be dealt with later.

2. Slip the next st to the right needle and pass the first slipped st over it. Repeat from * five more times. Slip the last bound-off st back to the left needle and turn the work around.

3. Build the upper edge of the buttonhole, using the cable cast-on. With WS facing and yarn to the back, insert the right needle between the first and second sts on the left needle. Wrap yarn around the tip of the right needle and pull the loop through to the front. Place that loop on the end of the left needle. Repeat this whole step six more times.

Enclosing the Tube

1. Turn the work over so the RS is facing. This time, when closing the buttonhole, the tube will be coming from under the bottom edge of the buttonhole and lie on top of the cable cast-on top edge. Fold the tube down over the bottom edge of the buttonhole. With yarn in back, slip the first st from the left needle to the right and pass over the last cast-on st from the right needle to close the buttonhole. Move this st back to the left needle and p1 to “lock” the buttonhole. The tube is now coming out from the inside of the bag.

2. P2, k50, p2. Repeat the steps in “Creating the Tube-Out Buttonhole,” above. When securing the second buttonhole, make sure the tube is coming out from inside the bag. P2.

3. Continue knitting 3 rounds (k50, p2, k6, p2, k50, p2, k6, p2).

4. Add a stripe of the other color. Switch to CC. Knit 2 rounds (k50, p2, k6, p2, k50, p2, k6, p2).

5. Switch back to MC1 and MC2 held together. Knit 5 rounds (k50, p2, k6, p2, k50, p2, k6, p2).

6. Repeat the steps in “Creating the Tube-In Buttonhole” twice (once on each side panel). Continue knitting 3 rounds (k50, p2, k6, p2, k50, p2, k6, p2).

7. Switch to CC, k 6 rounds (k50, p2, k6, p2, k50, p2, k6, p2).

8. Switch back to MC1 and MC2 held together, k 1 round (k50, p2, k6, p2, k50, p2, k6, p2). Repeat the steps to “Creating the Tube-Out Buttonhole” on either side.

9. Continue knitting 9 rounds (k50, p2, k6, p2, k50, p2, k6, p2).

10. Loosely co 70 sts (side panel, front edge of bag, other side panel). The bag portion is now complete.

Cover Flap

1. The cover flap will be worked flat on the remaining 50 live sts. Using a single strand of MC1, work 50 st in St st for 30 rows (on RS, k50; on WS, p50).

2. Switch to CC, work 2 rows of St st.

3. Switch to two strands of MC1 and MC2 held together, work 4 rows of St st.

4. Switch to CC, work 6 rows of St st.

5. Switch to two strands of MC1 and MC2 held together, work 2 rows of St st.

6. Switch to CC, work 1 row of St st.

7. Switch to a single strand of MC, work 4 rows of St st.

8. Switch to two strands of MC1 and MC2 held together, loosely co 50.

Stabilization Loop

1. Co 8 sts.

2. K 4 rows.

3. Loosely co all stitches.

4. Sew this “belt loop” to the center of the bag’s bottom, around the inner tube. This will secure the tube and keep it in place to support the contents of the bag.

Felting and Finishing

Through the magic of agitation and the scaling nature of wool fibers, it’s time to transform the large and loose knitting into a tough, tricked-out transporting dream.

1. Place the bag and inner tube in a pillowcase (to protect the washer from the globs of fiber that will shed from the piece). Use a rubber band to close it.

2. Fill the washing machine to its lowest level with hot or warm water, as checking the piece frequently will be necessary and also to prevent hand burns. Add the soap as the machine fills and set it to its heaviest agitation level.

3. Felting will begin suddenly, so keep an eye on the piece. Check the progress of the felting every 5 minutes. Wring out the excess water and stretch and pull the bag into the desired shape. When it’s wet, the fabric is still malleable.

4. The bag will be ready when that stretchy stockinette turns into a firm slab of felt. Felt it until the stitch definition is barely discernible and the buttonholes tighten snugly around the inner tube.

5. When it’s reached its final dimensions, rinse the bag to remove all of the soap and excess fiber. Roll it in between towels. Block your bag by stuffing it full of towels or stretching it over a plastic-bag-covered box to achieve the shape desired. Allow to dry completely, 1 to 2 days.

6. The bag is ready for the road. To adjust the length of the strap, use the bike messenger’s friend and everyday office supply item: the large black metal paper clamp. To prevent a wayward pen or knitting needle from escaping through one of the buttonholes, secure such smaller items safely away in zippered pouches. Grab your laptop, a notebook and some knitting projects, throw the bag over your shoulder and hit the streets.

Visit Stephen at Hizknits.com!

This pattern was reposted courtesy of the designer. Please contact him/her directly with questions.

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