Knitty Gritty Pattern: Iris Shreier’s Cropped Sweater
Materials
2 skeins Artyarns Silk Rhapsody (100% silk and 70% mohair/30% silk blend, 3-1/2oz/100g = 260yd per skein) (A)
1 skein Artyarns Beaded Silk (100% silk yarn with silver glass beads, 1.8oz/50g = 100yd per skein) (B)
clip-on stitch markers
stitch holders
minimum 24″ long circular needles US size 8 (for body)
crochet hook, US size 6
tapestry needle
Notes and Tips
Yarn A is used for the front, back and sleeves, and B is used for the beaded trim around the neckline and at the sleeve cuffs.
Silk Rhapsody and Beaded Silk are fibers with very little give, meaning that they barely stretch or spring back as they’re being knitted. Knitted fabric with silk becomes very stretchy, however, and this additional ease must be taken into account as you swatch, measure and knit the garments. Often silk garments look small but fit well when worn. Be very careful when attempting to substitute rayon or cotton in fitted multidirectional garments. Check not only the gauge but also the weight of the yarn. If your yarn is heavier than the one used in the garment, the knitted fabric will weigh more and may not fit properly. Therefore, choose any substitute yarns based on the yards/meters per ounce/gram.
It’s best to hand-wash this garment carefully with a very mild soap specifically meant for fine washables. Do not wring it, but after soaking it in a cool, mild soap bath and rinsing, roll it in a towel to absorb the excess moisture and carefully lay it on a flat surface to dry completely without being moved.
Blocking is usually unnecessary because the garment is worked primarily in garter stitch. If blocking is desired, however, use a hand steamer or an iron. If you’re using an iron, make sure to place a protective cloth, such as a dishtowel, between the hot iron and the knitted fabric.
Measurements
Small (Medium, Large):
Bust: 30/32 (34/36, 38/40″
Length from shoulder to bottom edge: 14″ (14-3/4″, 15-1/2″)
St Abbreviations
sl 1 slip 1 st by transferring it from 1 needle as though to knit with yarn in back
skp slip, knit, pass (slip 1 st as if to knit with yarn in back, knit the second st, pass the slipped st over the knitted st [a decrease of 1 st])
ssp slip, slip, pass (slip 1 st as if to knit, slip a second st as if to knit, pass the first slipped st over the second slipped st [a decrease of 1 st])
inc 1 increase 1 (knit into the front and the back of the same st [an increase of 1 st])
k2tog knit 2 sts together as though they were 1 st (a decrease of 1 st)
pm place st marker
rm remove st marker
Note: Repeat steps provided twice to make front and back pieces; front and back are identical to each other.
Center Increase Triangle
With A, cast on 3 sts.
Row 1: K1, inc 1, k1.
Row 2: Inc 1, inc 1, pm, k2.
Row 3: Inc 1, k to marker, rm, inc 1, pm, k to end.
Repeat Row 3 until there are 66 (70, 74) sts on needle (figure A).
Next row: Skp, k to marker, rm, inc 1, pm, k to end.
Repeat this row a total of 14 (18, 20) times.
Leaving working yarn attached, place half the sts farthest from working yarn on a holder.
Squaring Off the Sides (worked separately)
Note: Every row is actually a ridge, consisting of two rows: the first part of the instruction is worked toward the center, the work is turned and the second part of the instruction is worked toward the edge. You will be leaving stitches behind; one stitch per row will be left unknitted and these stitches will be used later to create the V neckline (figure B).
Rows 1-2: Skp, k to marker, rm, k1, turn; inc 1, pm, k to end.
Row 3: K to marker, rm, k1, turn; inc 1, pm, k to end.
Rows 4-9: Repeat Rows 1-3 twice.
Next Row: Skp, k to marker, rm, k1, turn; inc 1, pm, k to end.
Armhole and Shoulder Shaping
Armhole:
Row 1: Skp, bind off 3 sts, k to marker, rm, k1, turn; inc 1, pm, k to end.
Row 2: Repeat Row 1.
Row 3: Skp, bind off 1 st, k to marker, rm, k1, turn; inc 1, pm, k to end.
Row 4: Repeat Row 3.
Row 5: Skp, k to marker, rm, k1, turn; inc 1,pm, k to end.
Repeat Row 5 until there are 11 (11, 12) sts left on the working side of the marker.
Repeat this row until armhole measures 8-1/2 (8-1/2, 9)”.
Binding off shoulder:
Row 1: Skp, k to marker, rm, k1, turn; skp, k to end.
Row 2: Skp, k to end.
Repeat Row 2 until 2 sts left, bind off, cut yarn. Place all sts left behind on st holder 2.
Working From the Center
Note: Transfer stitches from stitch holder 1 onto left needle, with center stitch in position to be worked first (edge stitch is last.) Attach yarn, and work as follows:
Row 1-2: Inc 1, pm, k to end, turn; skp, k to marker, rm, k1, turn.
Row 3: Inc 1, pm, k to end, turn; k to marker, rm, k1, turn.
Rows 4-9: Repeat Rows 1-4 twice.
Next row: Inc 1, pm, k to end, turn; skp, k to marker, rm, k1, turn.
Armhole and shoulder shaping:
Row 1: Inc 1, pm, k to end, turn; skp, bind off 3 sts, k to marker, rm, k1, turn.
Row 2: Repeat Row 1.
Row 3: Inc 1, pm, k to end, turn; skp, bind off 1 st, k to marker, rm, k1, turn.
Row 4: Repeat Row 3.
Row 5: Inc 1, pm, k to end, turn; skp, k to marker, rm, k1, turn.
Repeat Row 5 an additional time, or until there are 11(11, 12) sts left on the working side of the marker, then work even.
Next row: Inc 1, pm, inc 1, k to end, turn; skp, k to marker, rm, k1, turn;
Repeat this row until armhole measures 8-1/2 (8-1/2, 9)”. Count the stitches on stitch holder 2 to ensure that the same number of stitches have been left behind for this side of the V neckline.
Binding off shoulder:
Row 1: Skp, k to end, turn.
Repeat Row 1 until 2 st left, bind off, cut yarn.
Neckline and Sleeves
Seashell pattern 1 (3 to 5) (used in neckline and cuffs):
SSP, transfer remaining st back to left needle, pass second st on left needle over first st (3 sts decreased to 1 st). Then work in this remaining st as follows: *K1 and leave original st on left needle, transfer new st back to left needle, k the transferred new st again (forming a new st on right needle); drop the transferred st from the left needle and keep the original st in place on the left needle. Working into the original st again, repeat from * 4 times more. There are now 5 sts on the right needle. Drop the original st from the left needle (1 st increased to 5 sts).
Seashell pattern 2 (4 to 3) (used in center of neckline):
SSP, sl 1, pass second st on right needle over first st, transfer remaining st back to left needle, pass second st on left needle over first st (4 sts decreased to 1 st). Then work in this remaining st as follows: *K1 and leave original st on left needle, transfer new st back to left needle, k the transferred new st again (forming a new st on right needle); drop the transferred st from the left needle and keep the original st in place on the left needle. Working into the original st again, repeat from * 2 times more. There are now 3 sts on the right needle. Drop the original st from the left needle (1 st increased to 3 sts).
Seashell pattern 3 (5 to 5) (used in second and third rows of cuffs):
SSP, sl 1, pass second st on right needle over first st, slip second st on left needle over first st, transfer remaining st back to left needle, pass second st on left needle over first st (5 sts decreased to 1 st). Then work in this remaining st as follows: *K1 and leave original st on left needle, transfer new st back to left needle, k the transferred new st again (forming a new st on right needle); drop the transferred st from the left needle and keep the original st in place on the left needle. Working into the original st again, repeat from * 4 times more. There are now 5 sts on the right needle. Drop the original st from the left needle (1 st increased to 5 sts).
Neckline
Note: Place markers to mark center 4 stitches, and then mark every 3 stitches from center marker toward working yarn, leaving a minimum of 1 stitch at edge.
Row 1: Depending on how many sts are after the last marker k1, k2 or k3.
Work Seashell Pat 1 to center 4 sts, work Seashell Pat 2, then work Seashell Pat 1 across row to last 1, 2, or 3 sts. K to end. Place clip-on marker before last Seashell Pat 1 worked.
Row 2: Skp, p to marker, rm, *p into bar between sts (an increase of 1 st), p3; repeat from * to last 1, 2 or 3 sts, p to end.
Row 3: Bind off all sts, knitting into bar between sts to drop increased sts from previous row. Cut yarn.
Repeat rows 1-3 to make second identical piece. Seam shoulders and side seams with wrong side facing.
Figure C Note: This top is reversible, and you can choose to make the shells with the purl bumps on the right or wrong side, depending on your preference. The model is made with the shells with knit bumps on the right side (figure C).
Sleeves (make 2):
Cast on 3 sts.
Row 1: S1, inc 1, pm, k1 (4 sts).
Row 2: Inc 1, k to marker, rm, inc 1, pm, k to end.
Repeat Row 2 until 16 (18, 20) sts.
Next Row: K to marker, rm, inc 1, pm, k to end.
Repeat this row until 64 (68, 72) sts on needles.
Sleeves (continued):
Rows 1-4: K to marker, rm, inc 1, pm, k to last 2 st, k2tog (4 times.)
Rows 5-6: K2tog, k to center, inc 1, k to last 2 st, k2tog (2 times.)
Repeat Rows 1-6 until 48 (50, 52) sts remain.
Separate sides by placing half the stitches away from the working yarn on a holder. Cut yarn A and attach yarn B.
Row 1: With B, work Seashell Pattern 1 7 (8, 8) times across to last 3 (1, 2) sts. K to end, turn; k 3 (1, 2), p to end.
Row 2: Work Seashell Pattern 3 7 (8, 8) times across to last 3 (1, 2) sts. K to end, turn; k3 (1, 2), p to end.
Row 3: Work Seashell Pattern 3 7 (8, 8) times across to last 3 (1, 2) sts. K to end, turn; k 3 (1, 2), *p into bar between sts (increase of 1 st), p5; repeat from * to end.
Bind off all sts, knitting into bar between sts to drop increased sts from previous row. Cut yarn.
Transfer sts from holder back to needle. Attach B at center of sleeve cuff.
Begin working as follows:
Row 1: With B, k (3 (1, 2), work Seashell Pattern 1 7 (8, 8) times across to end, turn; p to last 3 (1, 2) sts, k to end.
Row 2: K 3 (1, 2), work Seashell Pattern 3 7 (8, 8) times across to end, turn; p to last 3 (1, 2) sts, k to end.
Row 3: K 3 (1, 2), work Seashell Pattern 3 7 (8, 8) times across to end, turn; p5, *p into bar between sts (increase of 1 st), p5; repeat from * to last 3 (1, 2) sts, k to end.
Bind off all sts, knitting into bar between sts to drop increased sts from previous row. Cut yarn.
Finishing
1. Using B, with wrong side facing, single crochet around neckline once and around bottom edge 4-5 times.
2. Block all pieces (see note on blocking, previous page). With right sides of back and each front together (wrong side facing), sew shoulder and side seams, aligning lace pattern at shoulder edges. Sew underarm seams of sleeves, aligning lace pattern at sleeve cuff. Pin a sleeve to each armhole, matching sleeve seam to side seams and center top of sleeve cap to shoulder seams. Sew sleeves in place.
3. Weave in all ends.
Gorgeous! I’ve always wanted to use Artyarn, but the price scares me away! Can you suggest a more budget-friendly alternative?
Erin
YAY, thanks!
Hello everyone! I posted a link to this pattern that I made, on FB. Saw it on Knitty Gritty, and had to make it. I couldn’t afford the Artyarn, so I substituted bamboo. Still expensive, but much less. I used beads purchased from bead store, on the collar. Here’s the link to my photos: http://www.flickr.com/