Knitty Gritty Pattern: Cat Bordhi’s Mobius Scarf
Mobius Scarf, by Cat Bordhi
Materials
Fleece Artist 4-ply cashmere (100% cashmere, 50 g/ 170 m), 1 skein
47″ circular needles, U.S. size 10 (6 mm) (or size needed to obtain gauge)
tapestry needle
stitch marker
Gauge: 12 sts = 4″ (10 cm)
Finished size: 27″ circumference, 10″ width
Abbreviations:
k knit
k2tog knit 2 stitches together
MCO Mobius cast-on
p purl
p1f&b purl once into the front and once into the back of the same stitch (an increase)
yo yarn over
Mobius cast-on:
MCO 80 sts as follows:
Place a slipknot on the middle of the 47″ needle’s cable, with the needle ends hanging down like an upside-down U. With your right hand, take the left needle and circle it counterclockwise, placing it in front of and against the slipknot (which is in the middle of the cable). The right side of the upside-down U remains hanging down and is ignored during the Mobius Cast-On (MCO) process.
Your right hand holds the needle (which is pointing to the left) and the slipknot against the cable, so the slipknot cannot slip around. Tension the yarn and cable in your left hand by using your index finger to hold the yarn up high and your remaining three fingers and thumb to firmly grasp the cable and yarn. You should see a triangle: its base is the cable, the yarn forms the right side and your left hand is the left side. It is easiest to work with a large triangle, with the base several inches long.
Step 1: Continuing to hold the slipknot firmly against the cable with your right hand, which is also holding the needle, point the needle at yourself, then dive under the cable and up inside the triangle. Lean on the yarn and swing right back the way you came, bringing the scoop of yarn with you. In other words, retrace your path, ending in the position you began (starting position).
Step 2: Continuing to hold the slipknot firmly against the cable with your right hand, which is also holding the needle, point the needle up and over the yarn, then down behind it to bring a scoop of yarn back to starting position. This is essentially a yarn-over.
Have a look: there are two stitches on the needle and two on the cable below. The first one on the cable is the slipknot. To count MCO stitches, count only the stitches on the needle. Never count the stitches on the cable below, although they will be knitted. Since the slipknot is on the cable, it is not counted.
Repeat steps 1 and 2 over and over until the required number of stitches is cast on. For an MCO of 80, repeat steps 1 and 2 until 80 sts are on the needle and 80 on the cable below.
Begin to knit:
Before continuing, check to be certain there is only one crossing of needle and cable. Place a marker on right needle. Knit the first stitch, which is the slipknot. The first 79 stitches will alternate between being mounted with the front leg first (as you are probably used to) and the back leg first. Knit into the leg that comes first. When the marker appearsbeneath your needles on the cable below, you have completed the 79 stitches, and from now on all stitches will appear mounted “normally” with the front leg first. The next stitch is formed by the double sides of the slipknot as it loops down around the cable below. Knit this stitch as if the double sides are one strand. Continue knitting until the marker reappears in between your needles, announcing that you have completed your first round.
Be clear about this before going on:
Each time the marker appears in between your needles (not on the cable below), you are at the end of a round.
Begin diagonal lace pattern:
*Yo, k6, k2tog. Repeat from * to end of round.
Knit one round.
Repeat last two rounds 10 more times.
Lace edging:
Round 1: *[Yo, k1] 2 times, [yo, k2tog] 3 times. Repeat from * to end of round.
Round 2: Knit.
Round 3: *Yo, k2tog, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 4: Knit.
Round 5: *Yo, k2tog, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 6: Knit.
Garter edge:
Round 1: *P1f&b, p3. Repeat from * to end of round.
Round 2: Knit.
Bind off loosely.
Blocking:
The cashmere cowl will self-block as you wear it. With wear, the yarn will bloom to produce a lovely halo.
This pattern was reposted courtesy of the designer. Please contact him/her directly with questions.
I can never thank you enough!!! I have been looking for this pattern all over the internet–despaired since the Treasury is out of print. I have two skeins of Woodlands Kid Slique burning a hole in my bag (the pocket has already been toasted to a crisp) Thank you again!
I appreciate this blog also. Just for information purposes I enjoy another website called ravelry.com It is a free site, has loads of patterns, groups to join if you would like to, a page of your own to share what you have made and other stuff of interest. When you do join, you don’t use your real name so that is not an issue. Check it out, I’m puzzlelover.
I used to catch your Knitty Gritty program on DIY but I can’t find it anymore at all. Any information?
In the original instructions, it calls for using a stitch marker every 8 stitches when knitting the pattern. Your version doesn’t. Are all the stitch markers, except for the first one, really necessary?
Kristi, It makes it easier to keep track .. but not necessary..
Thank you for this inspiring pattern. After discovering your cast on clip two weeks ago I have made four bands for friends and this represents a new challenge to some mohair wool languishing unused under my stairs. I’ll be onto it.