How to Crochet Socks
This week on Ask Me Monday was a sister-episode to Episode #100 How to Knit Socks. The latest show covered, you guessed it, How to Crochet Socks! In this video and accompanying blog post, I show how to use a basic sock recipe to crochet a sock for any sized foot. I demonstrate using the toe-up method, and with an afterthought heel. Give the show a watch, then put your hook into action by either using the recipe to create your own design or by crocheting my baby sock version. Have fun!
How to Crochet Socks: Video
How to Crochet Socks: Basic Recipe
Superwash wool of any weight (For this tutorial, I’m making a baby sock, using sock-weight, superwash wool)
Knitter’s Pride Waves Crochet Hook in the corresponding size (for this tutorial, I used. a Size U.S. G/4.5 mm)
2, Removable Stitch Markers
This tutorial is written in U.S. Terms.
How to Crochet Socks: Figuring out Stitch Count
To get started, you have a couple of choices: either measure the foot circumference of the person you’re going to knit for or use the average sizing provided by Yarn Standards. I prefer the latter. You can find all size charts on their website.
Step 1: Swatch
Using your chosen yarn and corresponding hook, swatch in whatever stitch you’ll be using for the FOOT portion of the sock. Measure your stitch gauge (how many stitches per inch you achieve.) For the sample baby sock, mine is 5 sts per inch.
Looking at the chart, I want a 4 1/2″ circumference. To figure out the foot stitch count, the sts per inch is multiplied by the circumference: 5 x 4.5 = 22.5
Since we’re working with a garment that should fit snuggly, we’ll err on the side of negative ease, so round down to 22 sts. This is the amount I need to increase while working the toe (see below.)
How to Crochet Socks: Let’s get crocheting!
Ch 7 (This number will work for most sizes, in most yarns. However, if you’re working on a Men’s sock in a lightweight yarn, you might want to consider adding 2-4 chains.)
Note: I recommend single crochet (sc) for toes and heels, as it’s the sturdiest, least holey stitch.
Rnd 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 4, 2 sc in last st; flip piece over and work in the underside of chain, sc 3, 2 sc in last st; join rnd with a sl st. —12 sts
Rnd 2: Ch 1 (doesn’t count as st), 2 sc in same st as ch, sc 4, [2 sc] TWICE, 4 sc, 2 sc in last st; join rnd with a sl st. —18 sts
Rnd 3: Ch 1, 2 sc in same st, sc 6, [2 sc] TWICE, 7 sc, 2 sc in last st; join rnd with a sl st. —22 sts
For the sample baby sock, you’ll stop here. For all larger sizes, you’ll continue as established, increasing 4 sts per round (two at each end of the oval, until you get to the stitch count you need for the foot (i.e. the circumference.)
TIP: If you need to end your increases with 2 sts, instead of 4 increased, the work one last round that looks like this:
Ch 1, sc X (2 stitches more than the round before), 2 sc in next st, sc to last st, 2 sc; join rnd with a sl st.
From here, you can change to your chosen stitch pattern. For the sample baby sock, half-double crochet (hdc) is used.
Rnd 1: Ch 2 (counts as hdc), hdc in next st and every st around; join rnd with a sl st.
Rnd 2: Ch 2, hdc in next st and every st around; join rnd with a sl st.
Repeat Rnds 1-2 until piece measures 2 1/2″/ 6.5 cm (baby sock), or length of top of foot from toe to ankle.
SET UP FOR AFTERTHOUGHT HEEL:
Note: you want the heel placement to mirror the toe, so if you’ve gotten off course at all, yo umay need to slip stitch to get you in the right position of where the instep (top of foot) is.
Next Rnd: Ch 2 (doesn’t count as hdc), hdc in next 11 sts (or half of, not including the beg ch, total stitches), ch 11 (or 2nd half of total stitches), sk 11, join rnd with a sl st. This will create a hole, which is where the heel will eventually be.
Next Rnd: Ch 2, hdc in next st and every st around; join rnd with a sl st.
TIP: If you’re making a sock for someone with a thicker ankle or calf, you can add circumference here, by simply chaining a few extra stitches!
For this portion, you can continue with the same stitch pattern as for the FOOT, or choose something different. My favorite stitch pattern for crochet socks is a ribbing created with Front Post half-double crochet stitches (FPhdc) and Back Post half-double crochet stitches (BPhdc)
Rnd 1: Ch 2 (doesn’t count), *FPhdc, BPhdc; rep from * around; join rnd with a sl st. — 22 hdc
Repeat Rnd 1 for 2″/5cm (baby sock), or as long as you’d like your leg cuff to be.
Note: I’ve found that it works best to work this portion in a spiral for a smaller sock like this one, but I’ve written the pattern in traditional rounds so it translates to all sizes. Keep in mind though, that you can always transition to spiral after rounds if your decreases start to impede on the beginning of the rnd.
Join yarn at back of leg.
Set up rnd:
Ch1, sc in every stitch around, PLUS stitches in row gap. This number will vary based on the height of stitch pattern that was used for the foot. A good rule would be to work the same amount of stitches (in each side of gap) as chains are required to create the respective foot stitch. Here’s what I mean:
sc = ch1 —> work 1 st in each gap.
hdc = ch2 —> work 2 sts in each gap.
dc = ch3 —> work 3 sts in each gap.
tr = ch 4 —> work 4 st in each gap.
For baby sock example, in which the foot was worked in hdc, the rnd would look like this:
Ch1 (doesn’t count), sc in same st and next 5 sts (aka to first gap), 2 sc in gap,place marker in that last st, sc across instep (in next 11 sts), 2 sc in gap, place marker in that last st, sc to end (last 5 sts); join rnd with a sl st.
Rnd 1: Ch1 1, sc in same st and to 1 st before marker, sc2tog (move marker to this stitch), sc to 1 sts before next marker, sc2tog (move marker to this stitch), sc to end; join rnd with a sl st.
Repeat Rnd 1 until roughly 1/3 of the sts remain, or until heel appears to be the shape you want it. Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
Using tail and tapestry needle, seem heel closed. Weave in ends.
How to Knit Socks: More Tutorials
- Prefer to learn how to knit socks? Go here!